Monday, 23 November 2009

Recipe For A Salad, Sydney Smith

I think I may actually try to make this one for the next time I post... stay tuned.

"In a letter to Lady Holland in 1839, Smith gives the recipe for this salad. It follows the poem except that at the close Smith instructs her, "Mix the Salad thoroughly just before it is used" (The Letters of Sydney Smith, Vol. II, ed. Nowell C. Smith [Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1953]: 684)."*

To make this condiment, your poet begs

The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs;

Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve,

Smoothness and softness to the salad give.
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 

And, half suspected, animate the whole.

Of mordant mustard add a single spoon,

Distrust the condiment that bites so soon; 

But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, 

To add a double quantity of salt.
Four times the spoon with oil from Lucca brown,

And twice with vinegar procured from town;

And, lastly, o'er the flavored compound toss

A magic soupcion of anchovy sauce.
O, green and glorious! O herbaceous treat! 

'T would tempt the dying anchorite to eat:

Back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul, 

And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl!

Serenely full, the epicure would say,

"Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day."

5 comments:

emilyhall said...

This is fan-freaking-tastic, Fatima. I wish I were having it for lunch today.

I wonder what sort of measurement is "onion atoms"? Maybe it's an instruction to season a wooden bowl with an onion?

fatima k said...

The note at the Toronto website says: "atoms: small chopped-up pieces. Smith's receipe for Lady Holland specifies "1/2 a Tea Spoon of onion chopped very fine."", so I'm thinking just basically chopped onions?

When I imagine making it, I imagined it as a kind of potato salad, but I wonder what 'potatoes passed through a sieve' is meant to achieve - grated potato? Mashed potato? Since the egg yellow is 'pounded', if it is mashed, it seems it'd be rather messy to me.

I was thinking of maybe updating the recipe and making a chopped and egg salad, with some lettuce or other greens? And the dressing - oil, vinegar, anchovy and mustard - sounds Caesarish, no?

emilyhall said...

It sounds like very pungent baby food. Yes, I'd serve it with greens and maybe toast? Anchovies: yes.

Duh-Science said...

He can't mean grated raw potatoes, since they're toxic. I think he definitely means boiled potatoes pressed through a kitchen sieve. I don't know what the texture would be like, but I'll bet the trick would work better with cold potatoes than hot ones. Cold potatoes are easier to handle, and this doesn't sound like a warm salad.

fatima k said...

Duh-Science, I was thinking more like, grated and cooked in the way that latkes are, but actually that makes no sense at all as if you were to boil grated potato I don't think it'd hold up. I think, when I make this, I will stick to pieces of cold boiled potato. I imagine it having a salad olivier kind of consistency (which reminds me, there is a good post to be made regarding that).